The Customs Officers’ Path – GR 34 between Saint-Malo and Pontorson

In 1791, two years after the French Revolution, the government decided to embark on a crusade against the illegal trade and smuggling that plagued the Breton coast. A path took shape along the coastline, weaving in and out of lonely coves and climbing the heights of the steep cliffs. Customs officers' houses and watchtowers sprang up along its length.

In 1968, two centuries later, the struggle was over. The customs officers disappeared and were replaced by nature lovers. A group of experienced hikers decided to embellish the route with the red and white markers that define long-distance hiking trails in Europe, and it became known as the GR34. In 2018, the trail was voted ‘France's Favourite GR’.

This 2,000-kilometre (1,240 mi) route stretches along the coast between Saint-Nazaire and Mont-Saint-Michel, passing through some of Brittany’s exceptional landscapes. The marshes of Guérande, Cornouaille, the Abers region, the Emerald Coast, and the Pink Granite Coast are just some of the marvels to be found along the way. For lovers of history and nature, this extraordinary GR route is much more than just a path; it is a journey through the past.

This four-day adventure along the Customs Officers’ Path sets off from picturesque Saint-Malo. After skirting its eponymous bay, you'll discover the magnificent Mont-Saint-Michel. This tourist attraction, known as the ‘Wonder of the West’, is famed for its history and architecture.

Nature is also a main protagonist. This hike takes you to discover a succession of beautiful beaches and cliffs endemic to the region. Along the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel, the land levels out, oyster farms abound, and the views of the ocean are endless.

To start this hike, you can reach Saint-Malo by train directly from Rennes. On the return journey from Pontorson, hop on a train to Caen or Dol-de-Bretagne (on the Saint-Malo-Rennes route). There’s a wide range of accommodation on this section of the GR 34. Places fill up fast, especially around Mont-Saint-Michel, so book in advance.

You can walk the easy paths of this section of the GR 34. There are plenty of shops along the route, so pack light and only bring the bare essentials. In summer, the wind can mask the heat, so don't forget to cover your head and hydrate regularly. Brittany is particularly wet in winter, so remember to bring appropriate clothing for both cold and rain.

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Useful links:

The first part of the Customs Officers' Path between Saint-Nazaire and Pont d'Armes: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2419552
The second part of the Customs Officers' Path between Pont d'Armes and Surzur: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2422272
The third section of the Customs Officers' Path between Surzur and Sarzeau: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2428988
The fourth section of the Customs Officers' Path between Sarzeau and Vannes: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2431084
The fifth section of the Customs Officers' Path between Vannes and Lorient: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2458062
The sixth section of the Customs Officers' Path between Lorient and Concarneau: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2459250
The seventh section of the Customs Officers' Path between Concarneau and the Pointe du Raz: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2463258
The eighth section of the Customs Officers' Path between Pointe du Raz and Le Fret: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2464503
The ninth section of the Customs Officers' Path between Le Fret and Brest: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2465755
The tenth section of the customs path between Brest and Guissény: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2470111
The 11th section of the Customs Officers' Path between Guissény and Morlaix: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2471311
The 12th section of the Customs Officers' Path between Morlaix and Lannion: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2472006
The 13th section of the Customs Officers' Path between Lannion and Paimpol: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2476114
The 14th section of the Customs Officers' Path between Paimpol and Erquy: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2476428
The 15th section of the Customs Officers' Path between Erquy and Saint-Malo: https://www.xenvaroqil.info/collection/2477357